Troubleshooting

Concerned about an issue with your heating or cooling equipment?

These are some common problems with heating and cooling equipment. While not all problems are listed, this may help you to determine if you need the assistance of an experienced service technician.

Uneven Temperatures

This is usually just a matter of balancing or adjusting the airflow to each room so the room temperatures will even out. Or, sometimes making the rooms you want comfortable and unused rooms less so. If a room is heating or cooling quicker than other rooms, the airflow can be lowered allowing more air to other areas. Usually, it’s best to start in the room with the thermostat in it. This will allow your system to run long enough to satisfy the harder-to-condition rooms. If some room temperatures are consistently lower and the airflow isn’t as noticeable, make sure the vents are fully opened.

Many systems have dampers installed on the individual supply runs coming off the main supply trunk. This is either in the basement or attic. They are identified by little metal handles which open, close, and adjust a metal damper. By dampening the airflow here to rooms with more air, it will send more air to the rooms that need it.

If your system doesn’t have dampers or if they are inaccessible, then dampening and balancing will have to be done at the supply registers themselves. 

In most homes, there is always one or two rooms that just can’t keep up with the others. Maybe it has the longest duct run with the most elbows and turns, or it is over a garage with more heat loss or isn’t insulated as well. Whatever the case, balancing should help.

Here are a few things to check:

  • Open return vents, if your home has high and low
    • The top should be open in summer
    • The bottom should be open in winter
  • Check for proper insulation
  • Check to make sure the dampers are open
  • Check windows for drafts on windy days
  • Turning the fan on continuously to help spread out the heat
  • Clean the air filter to improve airflow
  • Close shades and/or curtains

Air Conditioning Help

Check the following before calling for a service call.

  • Is the thermostat on “cool” and turned down below room temperature?
  • Is the power on to the indoor unit?
  • Is the power on to the outdoor unit?
  • If yes to these, is the outdoor unit running?
  • If no, see if the outdoor unit has a red reset button and push it.
  • If that didn’t work, see if you have a condensate pump. Some pumps have a safety switch that shuts off the outdoor unit if the pump overfills and fails to pump.

If your outdoor and indoor units are running but not cooling, you will most likely need to have a service call.

Here is a partial list of possible causes:

  • Low refrigerant charge
  • Needs cleaning and servicing
  • Bad reversing valve
  • Bad compressor
  • Clogged air filter
  • Outdoor coils blocked or very dirty

If you would like to know more about our digital thermostats with clean filter reminders, please call our service department.

Oil Furnace

If your oil burner stops running, the first thing you should check is the reset button. It is usually a red button located on top of the burner. If you press it and the burner fires up, that was the problem. If the button should trip again, you should schedule a service call.

Do not keep resetting the button. The button is part of a safety device. It shuts the burner down when it thinks there is a problem. It is on the primary control or cad cell relay. On a call for heat, with the burner running, the cad cell senses the light of the flame. If it stops sensing the light, it causes the red button to pop up, shutting down the burner before any significant damage is done.

Here is a partial list of causes and things to check. Most will require a service call and/or a cleaning:

  • Bad or dirty cad cell
  • Bad primary control
  • Bad ignition transformer
  • Bad burner motor
  • Bad fuel pump
  • Blocked oil filter or nozzle
  • Air in oil line
  • Burner running with a very high smoke level
  • Burner sooted-up
  • Out of oil
  • Chimney blocked

No Heat

No Heat From Gas Furnace

If you notice your gas furnace is not providing heat, chances are pretty good you will need the assistance of a professional service technician. There are some common problems, however, that you can check before calling.

It is important to know what type of gas furnace that you have. Even though there are many types of gas furnaces in operation, let’s focus on the two most common types that are out there: Chimney-vented and power-vented.

If your gas furnace is vented to the chimney through a metal “stove pipe”, it is probably safe to assume your furnace has a standing pilot burner. Although some newer mid-efficiency furnaces are vented to a chimney and have some type of electronic ignition system. Below is a partial list of causes. Some will require a service call.

  • Thermostat not turned to heat and/or set above the current temperature
  • Blown fuses or tripped circuit breaker
  • Emergency power switch turned off
  • Faulty thermostat
  • Dirty filter
  • Pilot light is out
  • Faulty thermocouple
  • Faulty or tight blower motor
  • Faulty plenum switch or fan relay
  • Faulty gas valve
  • Blocked or restricted chimney or vent
  • Open limit switch (plenum or exhaust)

If your gas furnace is vented through PVC pipes (high efficiency, condensing), it may have a self-diagnostic feature. If a no-heat situation occurs and your furnace has a red light that is normally on steady but is now blinking, your furnace is trying to communicate a problem. Below is a partial list of causes. Some will require a service call.

  • Thermostat not turned to heat and/or set above the current temperature
  • Blown fuses or tripped circuit breaker
  • Emergency power switch turned off
  • Faulty thermostat
  • Dirty filter
  • Faulty hot surface igniter
  • Faulty spark igniter
  • Faulty or tight blower motor
  • Faulty plenum switch or fan relay
  • Faulty gas valve
  • Blocked or restricted PVC vent (check for snow or leaves where pipes exit the house)
  • Blocked or restricted PVC intake (check for snow or leaves where pipes exit the house)
  • Open limit switch (plenum or exhaust)
  • Faulty pressure switch
  • Blower door is off or not in place properly (from cleaning the filter)

No Heat From Oil Furnace

If your oil burner stops running, the first thing you should check is the reset button. It is usually a red button located on top of the burner. If you press it and the burner fires up, that was the problem. If the button should trip again, you should schedule a service call. 

Do not keep resetting the button. The button is part of a safety device. It shuts the burner down when it thinks there is a problem. It is on the primary control or cad cell relay.

On a call for heat, with the burner running, the cad cell senses the light of the flame. If it stops sensing the light, it causes the red button to pop up, shutting down the burner before any significant damage is done. Here is a partial list of causes and things to check. Most will require a service call and/or a cleaning.

  • Bad or dirty cad cell
  • Bad primary control
  • Bad ignition transformer
  • Bad burner motor
  • Bad fuel pump
  • Blocked oil filter or nozzle
  • Air in oil line
  • Burner running with a very high smoke level
  • Burner sooted-up
  • Out of oil
  • Chimney blocked

Leaks & Noises

If your electronic air cleaner is making loud buzzing or arcing noises, it may be one of the following reasons.

  • Dirty collector plates
  • Bent or broken collector plates
  • Water on or under collector plates
    • Make sure they are completely dry before replacing back into the cabinet
  • Pet hair or insects on collector plates
  • Broken or loose ionizing wires

You should not see water around the indoor unit. This is a sign that something is either leaking or not draining. The evaporator produces a lot of water during the summer, which runs down the coil into a pan, then down a drain. The drain goes either into the ground, outside, or into a condensate pump. Then, the pump takes the water either outside the house or into the sewer drain. If the coil is dirty, the condensation, instead of running down the coil, might hit the dirt, then drip onto the floor. This is one reason why the coil should be inspected annually. Our service technicians can inspect your coil and clean as necessary.

If the coil is dirty, the water will mix with the dirt and the dirt will end up in the pan and in the drain, the drain trap, and anywhere else it can cause a problem. It doesn’t take much dirt to clog a drain. This is why it is important to always have a good clean air filter and annual safety inspections.

Sometimes the indoor coil can actually ice-up. And when the ice melts, it drips to the bottom of the unit then onto the floor. Like water, you should not see ice during the cooling season.

Indoor water problems aren’t only during the summer. Many of today’s high-efficiency gas furnaces produce condensation as well. There are many parts in the furnace that can leak, drip, or crack, causing a water leak. You may also have a central humidifier that can leak.

If you see water, try to trace where it is coming from. Here is a partial list of causes and things to check:

  • Blocked pan, trap, or drain
  • Faulty condensate pump
  • Indoor coil frozen, causing melting ice to drip
  • Dirty evaporator coil
  • Cracked or rust holes in the condensate pan
  • Humidifier overfilling, leaking, or dirty
  • Suction line missing insulation
  • Condensate pump unplugged (plug it back in)
  • Floor drain clogged with dirt

Outdoor Units

Heat pumps do ice-up in the wintertime. It is normal for the entire coil to be covered in a white frost during certain weather conditions. It is not normal for the entire unit to be encased in ice, including the top of the unit and the insides of the coil for an extended period of time. This should be addressed quickly to save energy and avoid serious damage to the equipment.

Heat pumps will naturally ice-up in the winter, but will periodically go into a defrost cycle to clear the coils. This keeps the unit running efficiently. If the coils are blocked by ice, proper heat exchange between the refrigerant and the outside air cannot occur.

Different heat pumps have different ways of determining when to go into defrost. Some use mechanical timers in conjunction with a defrost thermostat mounted to the outdoor coil. If the thermostat is cold enough and enough time goes by, the unit will go into the defrost mode whether it is iced-up or not. When the thermostat heats up to a certain temperature, defrost is terminated. 

If a heat pump is severely iced-up in the winter it is possible that it isn’t defrosting but there are many other causes.

Here is a partial list of possible causes:

  • Bad defrost control or timer
  • Bad defrost sensor
  • Bad reversing valve
  • Bad outdoor fan motor
  • Low refrigerant charge
  • Outdoor coil blocked – possibly with leaves or snow drift
  • Leaking gutter dripping water onto top of unit
  • Freezing rain – causes top of unit to freeze over – once this happens the rest of the unit will also freeze over.

Some items you can check:

  • If the top of the unit is covered in ice, turn it off and remove the ice
  • Keep snow and leaves away from unit including underneath it
  • With the unit off, ice can be removed with a garden hose or warm water
  • If the unit ices-up again, it is time to schedule a service call
  • Never use sharp or hard objects to remove ice as that could cause damage
  • Never open any access panels, this needs to be done by trained, qualified service technicians

If your outdoor unit won't come on, check the list below before calling for service.

  • Make sure there is a call from the thermostat
  • Make sure no emergency switches are turned off (including the switch on the side of the furnace)
  • Make sure the breakers for the indoor and outdoor equipment are in the “on” position turn off, then on if not sure)
  • If you have a condensate pump with a safety switch, check to see if the pump is completely full of water. If so, make sure pump is plugged-in and the hose isn’t clogged.
  • If your outdoor unit has a “Reset Button,” press it. If that works for the time, but you have to press it a second time, there is a problem
  • Your unit could have a safety device locking it out. Reset it by turning system off at thermostat or breaker, wait 1 minute and turn back on. Wait 5 or 6 minutes to see if outdoor unit starts.

Indoor Units

It’s not normal to see ice in the summer on a heat pump or central air conditioner. This includes the indoor unit, outdoor unit, and line-set. It is possible to ice-up the indoor coil if the air conditioner is running in very cold weather or if the thermostat is turned down extremely low.

We recommend never turning the thermostat below 70 degrees. If air conditioning is needed during winter months, such as for businesses, then a low ambient kit can be installed by a service technician. If you see ice on a heat pump or air conditioner in the summer, there is most likely a problem.

Here is a partial list of possible causes. Most usually require a service call.

  • Bad indoor fan motor
  • Bad indoor fan relay
  • Low refrigerant charge
  • Blocked capillary tube
  • Blocked metering device
  • Faulty expansion valve or TXV
  • Stuck compressor contactor
  • Bad thermostat
  • Dirty indoor coil
  • Clogged air filter
  • Return vents closed
  • Setting thermostat too low

If you have a central humidifier with a by-pass damper, close it for the summer. If you find your air filter was clogged or very dirty, clean or replace and turn off the thermostat for several hours to let the coils thaw. Turning the unit back on before all the ice is thawed will cause the coils to refreeze even with a clean filter. Running just the fan should help to speed up the thawing process.

You should not you see water around the indoor unit. This is a sign that something is either leaking or not draining. The evaporator produces a lot of water during the summer, which runs down the coil into a pan, then down a drain. The drain goes either into the ground, outside, or into a condensate pump. Then, the pump takes the water either outside the house or into the sewer drain. If the coil is dirty, the condensation, instead of running down the coil, might hit the dirt, then drip onto the floor. This is one reason why the coil should be inspected annually. Our service technicians can inspect your coil and clean it if necessary.

If the coil is dirty, the water will mix with the dirt and the dirt will end up in the pan and in the drain, the drain trap and anywhere else it can cause a problem. It doesn’t take much dirt to clog a drain. This is why it is important to always have a good clean air filter and have annual inspections.

Sometimes the indoor coil can actually ice-up. And when the ice melts, it drips to the bottom of the unit then onto the floor. Like water, you should not see ice during the cooling season.

Indoor water problems aren’t only during the summer. Many of today’s high efficiency gas furnaces produce condensation as well. There are many parts in the furnace that can leak, drip, or crack, causing a water leak. You may also have a central humidifier which can leak.

If you see water try to trace where it is coming from. Here is a partial list of causes and things to check:

  • Blocked pan, trap, or drain
  • Faulty condensate pump
  • Indoor coil frozen, causing melting ice to drip
  • Dirty evaporator coil
  • Cracked or rust holes in the condensate pan
  • Humidifier overfilling, leaking , or dirty
  • Suction line missing insulation
  • Condensate pump unplugged (Plug it back in)
  • Floor drain clogged with dirt

Energy Efficiency/CoGeneration

Many things can cause high electric bills. This includes estimations of the previous month or poorly insulated homes.

Ruling this out usually leaves one culprit: the heating system, specifically if it is a heat pump. The electric bill will be higher in the coldest months because that is when the back-up heat is on the most. But if electric bills are higher than normal it may mean a sign of a problem with the heat pump.

This can range from minor things like a dirty air filter or an iced-up outdoor unit to major problems like a bad compressor,

Here’s a list of possible causes:

  • Outdoor unit not running, using back-up heat
  • Low refrigerant charge
  • Poor efficiency- needs cleaning and servicing
  • Bad reversing valve
  • Bad compressor
  • Compressor not running
  • Stuck in A/C mode
  • Outdoor unit iced-up
  • Snow drift against outdoor unit
  • Dirty air filter.

Circuit Breakers

If the circuit breaker to your indoor or outdoor unit trips, you may reset it. Turn it to the “off” position (if it isn’t there already) and then back to the “on” position. If the breaker keeps tripping, you should schedule a service call.

Do not just keep resetting it and ignoring the problem. It might be just a bad breaker or maybe just a thunderstorm, but you are dealing with high voltage so it might be best to have a professional look at it.

One common cause for breakers to trip is loose electrical connections. Larger aluminum wires tend to expand and contract causing the connections to loosen over time. It is just a matter of tightening the connections.

Another common cause is a direct electrical short in the wiring or equipment. This is identified by the breaker tripping instantly once the unit attempts to start. If this is the situation, don’t try to reset the breaker again. Call us for service.

Sometimes the breaker for the outdoor unit trips because the compressor is having trouble starting. It could be weak or just tight and a booster capacitor will do the job getting it going again. Or it may be as simple as replacing a bad capacitor which helps start the compressor.

Some possible reasons for a breaker to trip are listed below. Warning, when dealing with high voltage it’s best to leave it to a professional service technician.

  • Shorted component or wiring
  • Locked-up motor or compressor
  • Weak or blown capacitor
  • Loose electrical connection
  • Bad breaker
  • Low voltage to the house, brownout
  • Thunderstorm

Repair or Replace?

Should I repair or replace old equipment? Three main factors to consider are:

  • Life expectancy
  • Operating cost
  • Looking at the big picture

Life Expectancy of Current System

When you’re frustrated with an equipment breakdown, it can be tempting to find the least expensive “quick fix” to get on with your life in relative comfort. That “quick fix” may be the least expensive option now, but it may not give you the most value — or cost you the least — in the long run.

Paying for repairs to an old or inefficient system often simply prolongs the inevitable. It’s almost like putting a bandage on a serious injury. An older system that breaks down once is likely to break down again … and again. That means more emergency service calls or, worse yet, the risk of damage to your home or to other components of your heating and cooling system.

Operating Cost

There’s also an ongoing cost factor to consider. Restoring your old system will only bring it back to its current level of energy efficiency. After you’ve recovered from the repair bills and the frustration of system breakdowns, you still won’t save on your energy bills.

Even heat pumps and air conditioners from 8 years ago are considered grossly inefficient by today’s energy efficiency standards. So are most furnaces built before 1980. So you could save up to 60 percent on your energy bills with new high-efficiency equipment. That’s why installing a new heating and cooling system can actually pay for itself in energy savings within a relatively short time.

Looking at the Big Picture

When one component of your system breaks down unexpectedly, it’s easy to just focus on repairing or replacing that component. But each part of your system works with the others to boost efficiency and reliability, so it helps to keep the big picture in mind.

Replacing your old furnace with a new higher-efficiency model but leaving your old mechanical thermostat in place, for example, won’t allow you to enjoy all the efficiency advantages the furnace has to offer. Likewise, if you install a new furnace but don’t get a humidifier, the air may seem cooler, forcing you to operate your new system at a higher temperature to be comfortable. Plus, you can often save on installation costs if you have several components of your system (for example, a furnace and an air conditioner) replaced at the same time.